Golden fruit notes meet complex scents of cheese rind in this opulent Chassagne. For all its leesy richness, there’s plenty of structure to lift it, almost tannic in its radish-like bitterness, ready to take the place of a red wine with venison or lamb.

A well-layered if not particularly elegant array features notes of petrol, apple, pear and various floral nuances. There is outstanding richness and volume to the sappy and attractively textured medium weight plus flavors that deliver fine length and reasonably good depth on the inviting finish. This won't win any awards for refinement but it doesn't lack for volume and frank character.