(BH92-95 points) Here the wood is so subtle as to be all but invisible as it easily allows the riper and dense mix of both white and yellow orchard fruit, spice and sea breeze scents. The ripeness exhibited by the nose continues onto the juicy, even succulent broad-shouldered flavors that deliver stunningly good complexity on the impressively lingering finale. This should age effortlessly and I would expect the minerality to develop even more with age.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir was just missing the "edge" when I tasted it from vat last year. Now in bottle, it has quite a pungent, herbaceous bouquet with touches of smoke and dried herbs. The palate is balanced with a very austere opening and to be honest, just as I found last year, it seems to lack that nervosité and nascent energy that some of the other Grand Crus from William Fevre convey. It is pleasurable, but it does not quite match to the Chablis Bougros and others. Is this the weak link in the chain this year?