The 2014 Mazis-Chambertin from Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy was also still in tank and awaiting its bottling in the coming weeks, but it was a tad less grumpy than the Lavaux St. Jacques at the time of my visit. The nose jumps from the glass in a nascently complex blend of dark berries, cassis, nice meaty tones, black minerality, a touch of bonfire, French roast and spicy wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and focused, with a rock solid core, excellent focus and grip and a very long, very pure and ripely tannic finish. A superb example in the making.

Light but not invisible wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the brooding and reserved dark berry liqueur aromas that are liberally laced with spice, underbrush and once again sauvage hints. Like the Lavaut, the bigger and more imposingly powerful flavors are tautly muscular with just as much minerality on the serious and equally built-to-age finish that displays some youthful austerity.