Dönnhoff's iconic 2014 Riesling Hermannshöhle GG opens with a beautifully clear, coolish and smoky/fumy bouquet of great purity, precision and aromatic complexity. Think of intermingling lemon and slate aromas. The attack on the palate is racy and clear, and the wine starts straightly dancing over the palate. This is concentrated, perfectly ripe Riesling on the knife's edge; it's nicely piquant, highly mineral and endlessly salty. There are notes of melting stones and mineral, with great tension. "The vines are older in the Hermannshöhle, one plot is as old as I am," says Dönnhoff, who was born in 1949. - Stephan Reinhardt