Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Jean Paul Droin's 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a very composed bouquet, clearly with some wood influence that lifts the waxy, lanolin aromas. However, I would have liked more terroir expression here. The palate has an energetic opening with just the right amount of bitterness. There is plenty of sappiness here that gets the saliva flowing (as Chablis should) with oyster shell and a tang of seaweed on the finish. It actually improves with aeration, the reduction on the nose lifting and revealing more of the vineyard, more "Chablis-ness" if you like. - Neal Martin