Deep, dusty slate and smoke tones rim the edges of this sleek, laser-edged Kabinett. It's intensely concentrated in lemon and lime flavors, but darkly mineral as well, finishing on sweet-tart hits of citrus and salt. Delicious now, it should only improve over the next decade.

A racy and intense white, showing white berry, apple and lemon-lime flavors, with fresh minerality. Rich notes of rose petal, dried mint and chamomile emerge on the crunchy finish. Drink now through 2021. 700 cases imported.–KM

The 2014 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett is clear and smoky on the quite intense nose, and offers some vegetal aromas. Full-bodied and intense, with juicy fruitiness, this wine is still very young but expressive and compact in its structured and piquant, if not racy in its acidity style. The finish is complex and long. It is very promising, but needs to age some years.- SR