(BH93-95 points) This is the first wine to display really prominent wood influence though it's not so much to overshadow the sauvage and earthy red and dark berry-suffused nose. This is also rich, powerful and concentrated yet the big-bodied flavors possess a sleek mouth feel as the firm structure is already well-integrated on the mildly austere finale. This is also very much built-to-age and is going to require extended cellaring.

The 2015 Clos Vougeot from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat is also outstanding and is quite black fruity this year. The nose offers up a nascently complex mix of black plums, black cherries, gamebird, dark chocolate, a superb base of soil, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very sappy at the core, with lovely purity and focus, ripe, suave tannins and excellent length and grip on the perfectly balanced finish. This wine is very plush on the attack, but nicely soil-driven and structured on the backend. It will be stunning at its apogee.

94+ From bottle, the 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is one of the most reserved wines in the portfolio, opening in the glass with a brooding bouquet of plums, cassis, rich soil and wood smoke, framed by a judicious application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and concentrated but very taut and undemonstrative. The raw materials are formidable, but this will require more than a decade of bottle age to blossom: when it does, my score will likely look conservative. - William Kelley