94+ The 2015 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet opens in the glass with notes of fresh peach, confit lemons, white flowers and clear honey. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with striking concentration, lively acids and plenty of well-concealed structure. Long and penetrating, this is a Viré-Clessé with considerable potential for the long haul, and though it will be released later this year, simply because the winery hasn't anything else to sell, I encourage readers to be as patient as possible. Gautier Thevenet suggests that this evokes the 2005 vintage, but it also bears more than a passing resemblance to the 1989—which is drinking at its peak today, age thirty. - WK