Like a plush pillow wrapped around a steel core, this white boasts floral, lemon cake, apple and spice flavors. Firms up, with a long, citrus- and mineral-tinged finish. Balanced in a youthful way, needing time to grow. Best from 2020 through 2029. From France. — B.S.

In the same fashion as the BBM there are soft notes of wood toast and petrol that set off the ripe and overtly ripe but not really exotic aromas of both white and yellow orchard fruit that flash background spice and citrus nuances. The wood is more prominent on the palate though there is so much concentration and sappy dry extract that the big-bodied flavors should have no difficulty ultimately integrating it. Interestingly, and has been the case in several recent vintages of this wine, it is no less refined than the BBM if a bit more broad-shouldered. Good stuff with sneaky good length and this too has most impressive underlying reserves that should permit it to also age effortlessly.

94+ The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is superb, opening in the glass with a beautiful bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, tarte tatin, toasted nuts, orange zest and honey, framed by a deft touch of new oak. On the palate, the wine is broad, deep and very powerful, with almost chewy structure and a long, penetrating finish. This is more blocky and foursquare than the Bienvenues, with perceptibly racier acidity, and it will require more time in the cellar. - William Kelley