There is a whiff of matchstick present on the elegant array that consists of notes of citrus rind, white flowers and essence of pear. I like the intensity and mouth feel of the delicious and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that are notably rich and powerful on the ever-so-slightly warm finish. This isn't quite as tight and chiseled as it usually is though by contrast it does possess more concentration and power.

(92+ points) Pale, bright yellow. Restrained aromas of iodine, crushed rock and chestnut. Densely packed but slightly spiky and uncompromisingly dry, offering a bracing combination of lemon and pineapple fruit, firm minerality and lively acidity. Very tightly chiseled in the middle palate but opens out somewhat on the rocky back end, finishing with echoing flavors of lemon and saline minerality. Still, this youthfully unforthcoming wine will require patience. -- Stephen Tanzer