The Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2015 Brunello di Montalcino caps long years of careful study and experimentation. When I think back to what this wine tasted like, say, 10 years ago, I notice that the ongoing stylistic tweaks faithfully reflect the general evolution of the appellation. This wine is very much a symbol of a united move toward more streamlined and delicate expressions obtained with winemaking techniques that reflect a more traditional and Tuscan ideal. The bouquet opens to delicate flowers and violets with wild cherry and bitter almond. The level of toast and spice has been ratcheted down quite considerably. The results are polished, clean and bright. Some 42,000 bottles were made (and were released in January 2020).- ML

At 225 metres above sea level, Donatella Cinelli Colombini's 40ha Montalcino estate sits in the cool, northern reaches of the region. Called Casato Prime Donna, it is operated entirely by women at all levels of production. The 2015 is certainly the most refined vintage of this wine that I have tasted from the property. It is fresh and bright with enthralling herb, violet and cherry nuances. But it doesn't give everything up all at once: iron notes come out on the palate and powdery tannins brace the compact core. Lovely, lively finish.

Violet, wild berry, face powder and a whiff of eucalyptus are front and center on this fragrant red. It's elegant and linear, offering ripe Marasca cherry, licorice and dried mint framed in lithe polished tannins. It's already accessible but will also offer several more years of sipping pleasure. Drink through 2027. - KERIN O’KEEFE