Some of Santorini’s wines speak of the island’s bright sun and the Meltemi wind in their brisk, insistent acidity and the way they whisk across the palate. In 2015, the wind never blew; and Haridimos Hatzidakis doesn’t...
Some of Santorini’s wines speak of the island’s bright sun and the Meltemi wind in their brisk, insistent acidity and the way they whisk across the palate. In 2015, the wind never blew; and Haridimos Hatzidakis doesn’t make breezy wines anyway. Focusing on old vines that he tends organically, he regularly turns out some of the island’s most intense wines. This, his entry-level cuvée, is a giant, its concentration of dry extract palpable in the cashmere texture. The flavors are fruity, from Meyer lemon to apple and pineapple, with notes of honeysuckle showing their ripeness. But then there’s the acidity, pushing the wine forward with energy, keeping it dynamic. Firm and full of personality, it’s a burly Santorini to cellar or pour with roast lamb.