This aromatic red displays floral, berry, juniper and graphite notes, underlined by severe tannins that tip the balance toward the dry side. Shows purity, but needs time for the tannins to resolve. Best from 2023 through 2040. — BS

Ripeness, or over-ripness to be more specific, is a problem across the board with the Barbaresco wines from this vintage. The team at La Spinetta has expertly faced the problem. The 2015 Barbaresco Gallina Vürsù does indeed show a dark, more exuberant quality of fruit, but the wine never loses sight of its inner elegance and grace. Instead, the fruit's maturity and sweetness is played out in terms of the thick layering and density that is very apparent to the palate.- ML