Disgorged in February 2019 with four grams per liter dosage, the 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Grandes Crayères represents the debut of a new cuvée from Laherte. Deriving from two chalky plots located in the village of Chavot-Choucourt in the Côteaux Sud d'Éprnay, it's showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with inviting aromas of citrus oil, crushed oyster shell, dried white flowers and crisp green apple. Full-bodied, pillowy and incisive, with a layered and concentrated core, racy acids and a delicate pinpoint mousse, it concludes with a finish of intensely sapid, indeed almost mordant chalkiness—which lends the wine dynamism rare in this ripe vintage. - William Kelley