(93-95 points) This is the first wine to exhibit enough oak to warrant mentioning though it's not so much to dominate the spicy and earth black cherry liqueur-like aromas. The sleek middle weight plus flavors are given shape by the fine but dense tannins that carry over to the impressively persistent finish that is exquisitely well-balanced. This is an exercise in harmony and grace that should be approachable after 6 to 8 years if desired.

Pure and elegant, this red offers black cherry, black currant, mineral and spice flavors that mesh beautifully with the supple texture and well-integrated structure. Long and detailed on the energetic finish. Best from 2023 through 2040. — B.S.

93+ The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is superb, wafting from the glass with notes of cassis, red cherry, raspberry and candied peel that is still very fruit driven, savory nuances only emerging with extended aeration. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, powerful and muscular, with an authoritative chassis of fine-grained but firm tannins and a deep core of crunchy fruit. This is shutting down, but it's full of promise for the future. - William Kelley