One of two single-vineyard wines produced at the Vale Dona Maria estate, this is massive in its power and complexity. Dark tannins and rich black fruits are embedded in a mix of wood, spice, acidity and tense minerality. This is a wine to age, one of those that will last for many years. Drink at the earliest from 2024.

95+ The 2015 Tinto (Quinta Vale D. Maria) is a field blend from old vines (some 41 different grapes on vines averaging some 60 years in age) aged for 21 months in 60% new French oak. It comes in at 15% alcohol. It seems to handle its alcohol well. Sharper and leaner than the 15G or the CV this issue, this is also more tightly wound and focused. Van Zeller said they used a lot of lagar fermentation, and maybe that's a difference this year? Whatever happened seemed to work. It looks like a great estate Tinto, probably the best since 2011 and maybe better than that when all is said and done. Time will tell. Right now, it is admittedly closed and rather too intense. It is badly in need of time to develop. If it lacks the graceful feel of the 2015 15G just now, or the intensity of flavor of the 2016 CV, it is easily the most backward of the reds this issue. That means it has the most potential to improve—and, conversely, must do so. Let's be a little conservative in evaluation all around, both in terms of score and drinking windows. Still, this—the hardest edged of the reds this issue—looks like a serious vin de garde with ample opportunity to become a superstar in the cellar. - Mark Squires

A well-packed, muscular style, with warm fig, boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry confiture flavors inlaid with a graphite edge that gives them focus and support. Hints of licorice snap and a flash of ganache check in on the finish. Best from 2030 through 2050. 670 cases made. –JM