Sour mash and cider are wreathed in bittersweet floral perfume and mingled with corn shoots and chalk in this sappily concentrated elixir. The feel is polished and the perfumed and mineral elements strikingly persistent. Piquancy of apple seeds, corn shoots and smoky toasted nuts lends counterpoint to a finish of impressive grip. This doesn’t quite equal the refinement, clarity or energy of its 2014 counterpart, but it comes close enough to merit a place in the cellar, and who knows how the two will compare after a few years of bottle age? -- David Schildknecht