The Parusso 2016 Barolo Mosconi exhibits that same power, intensity and dark fruit with aromas of grape skins and vinous components. Marco Parusso lets his grapes undergo a very light appassimento in a cold storage room before pressing, and he uses a percentage of whole-cluster fruit with stems. Those strong flavors and tannins are very much on notice. You get hints of white pepper on this very powerful and tannic wine that won't be accessible until at least 10 years after the harvest, or probably more. - Monica Larner

Marco Parusso is a free spirit among Barolo winemakers, restlessly experimenting with drying grapes, lees contact and other techniques. He favours long macerations and ageing his wines in new barriques. Mosconi is a fairly new addition to his range - and a successful one. Deep in colour, it's super-ripe on the nose but not overblown. Suave and very concentrated, it has polished tannins and a good deal of complexity. It's clearly modern in style but does not taste over-oaked. Harmonious and long.