Moving to the reds, the 2016 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido is brilliant, with a rare sense of purity and class. Black raspberries, forest floor, spice, and ample salinity and minerality all give way to a vibrant, medium-bodied, pure, incredibly elegant Pinot Noir that does everything right. This cuvée was fermented entirely with native yeast and spent 16 months in one-third new French oak.

Intense cranberry and raspberry aromas meet with sultry baking spices, dried ginger, exotic wood and game on the nose of this bottling. The palate is intense in the same red fruits but layered in wild sagebrush and roasted quail, with bright acidity that is strong yet balanced. Drink now–2036. MATT KETTMANN

The 2016 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard has a pale to medium ruby color and broody—but pretty—nose with tar, wild blackberries, red fruit sparks, turned earth and wet leaves with notions of spice in the background. Medium-bodied, it has a good core of earthy fruits with juicy freshness and grainy tannins, finishing long. This needs more time in bottle! And definitely a decant if you open it soon. 846 cases produced.- EB