A tightly wound style, featuring black cherry, blackberry, mineral and spice flavors fused to a solid spine of acidity and tannins. Dense and long, with vivid acidity focusing the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2038. — B.S.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot is lovely, wafting from the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of wild berries, forest floor, potpourri and a subtle framing of cedar new wood. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny, with beautifully powdery tannins cloaked in cool, succulent fruit, concluding with a long finish. Right now, this Caillerets is quite reserved, but its structural finesse and harmony are already impressive. - William Kelley