If you thought Barbaresco was only floral and graceful, think again — this delivers a plethora of intense fruit. Ripe boysenberries, cherry compote, caramelized oranges and black raspberries are all thrown into the mix in flashy style. The tannins are cast in an ultra-chewy role, taming the immense fruit power this boasts. The body is full, too, but the flavors are all fresh and vibrant, aided by forthright and mouthwatering acidity. Drink from 2023.

This red is all about pure cherry, strawberry and rose aromas and flavors, highlighted by hints of eucalyptus, tar and tobacco. Though elegant, a firm backbone of acidity and tannins lends support. Shows fine length and harmony. Best from 2022 through 2040. 330 cases made, 50 cases imported. — BS

The Ca' Rome' 2016 Barbaresco Chiaramanti shows a pretty garnet or ruby color and deep fruit tones of wild cherry, plum and black currant. This is an intense and nicely fleshed out expression of Nebbiolo that offers elegance and power in equal measure. This vintage does not show the tannic astringency that I found in the 2017 vintage (also tasted at the same time), and I much prefer this wine.

The 2017 Barbaresco Chiaramanti, from a parcel within Rio Sordo, is a bit darker and more structured than that wine, but not materially different. Black cherry, wild flowers, iron and leather all open up in the glass. The 2017 needs time to soften, especially in its tannins. This is an especially potent, brooding expression of Rio Sordo. -- Antonio Galloni