Aromas of dried cherry, dark-red flower, smoked meat and black plum pudding come together in subtle ways on the nose of this bottling. The palate picks up more spice in the form of star anise and gingerbread, with lingering acidity driving cranberry and vanilla flavors into the finish. MATT KETTMANN

The 2016 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard aged 17 months in 30% new French oak. It has a pale to medium ruby-purple color and a nose of crushed blackberries, black cherries, underbrush, potpourri and red fruit sparks. Medium-bodied with a good core of earthy fruit, it has a sturdy frame and juicy freshness, finishing long and nuanced. 540 cases produced.- EB

The 2016 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is a tight, backward wine. Firm tannins give the Ryan a decidedly brooding feel. Smoke, licorice, leather, tobacco and incense emerge with time in the glass, adding to an impression of earthiness and gravitas. This is an especially somber style. More importantly, readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 is tightly wound and in no mood to show all of its cards. -- Antonio Galloni