One of the finest releases from not only this appellation but the entire Southern Rhône, the 2016 Lirac La Reine Des Bois is a unique blend of close to equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre that’s brought up in 30% used barrels, the balance in stainless steel. It literally jumps from the glass with loads of blackberry and currant fruits, graphite, charred meats, and peppery herbs. Deeply colored, medium to full-bodied, with sensational purity, give bottles a year or two and enjoy through 2028. It’s another brilliant wine from this estate that’s landed on both feet after the passing of winemaker Christophe Delorme in 2015.

(93+ points) One-third each Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, the 2016 Lirac La Reine des Bois continues this cuvée's tradition of overdelivering. Blueberry and mulberry fruit abound, dusted with cocoa and cinnamon. Full-bodied, rich and dense, it offers considerable aging potential, should you have the fortitude to resist it. It's juicy and long on the finish, where it picks up hints of licorice and baking spices. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.- JC

Violet and licorice candy lend spice and perfume to this plump, penetrating blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It's loaded with sun-kissed cherry flavor but shaded by umami notes of mushroom and leather too. Luscious but sleek, this polished wine is marked by fine, feathery tannins. Ready now it should improve through 2026.

A core of steeped raspberry and plum fruit is inlaid with singed apple wood, melted licorice and charcoal hints, giving this good range and contrast. The long finish is tightly focused and shows a light mineral echo. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now through 2021. – JM