A modern-day legend in the making is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve from Jean-Paul Daumen, one of the greatest young wines I’ve ever tasted. This Grenache-dominated effort was brought up all in foudre and tastes like the essence of this incredible terroir located on the northern edge of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Deep purple-colored, with an intoxicating bouquet of black raspberries, crushed herbs, black licorice, spring flowers, and spice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, multi-dimensional texture, a huge mid-palate, and a finish that goes on for over a minute. Not far off the style of the Les Trois Sources, yet with another level of concentration, it has a certain accessibility yet won’t be at its best for another 4-5 years, but it will keep for another two decades or more.

Intense, featuring warmed fig, blackberry and black currant compote flavors that spill forth, harnessed just in time by licorice snap, worn leather and roasted alder accents. Garrigue elements are inlaid throughout. Shows power and depth, with cut and drive to match. Very serious. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through 2040. — J.M.