(93 - 95 points) The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very elegant and poised bouquet, fine transparency here with superb delineation, not powerful but very precise and almost understated in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant chewiness to the tannin, good body, more assertive in the mouth than on the nose with a chalky texture toward the finish. Good length, lean and poised but fanning out with confidence—what a sublime expression of this famous vineyard.- NM

(92-94) A background touch of wood easily allows the ultra-fresh aromas of red currant, cherry, earth and tea to be appreciated. There is both good muscle and intensity to the broad-shouldered flavors that are shaped by unusually refined tannins in the context of what is typical for Clos de Vougeot plus the impressively long finish is also less youthfully austere than usual. Good stuff here.

The scale of this walled vineyard makes it a spotty grand cru, but some of the best parcels produce great wines—and Vougeraie farms some exceptional land, a 2.5-acre parcel just below the small road leading up to the château. The vines, on a slope facing east, date from plantings from the 1940s, ’50s, ’80s and ’90s. They produced a 2016 with delicate persistence and powerful substance. Craig Ganzer, a Burgundy collector, described the wine as “almost entirely minerals and earth.” It’s ripe, powerful and complex, a structured wine suited to a long rest in the cellar.

An alluring display of gamy cherry, raspberry, plum and rose aromas and flavors, augmented by mineral and wood notes. Complex, smooth and well-structured, ending with a dusting of tannins. Best from 2022 through 2043. — B.S.