(92-94) The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière almost seemed to relish being unaffected by the frost. A soupçon of schadenfreude perchance? It delivers a joyous, well-defined and concentrated bouquet with a mixture of black and blue fruit, almost Chambolle-like thanks to its richness. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, and there is superb density here. It feels lively and tensile without compromising the backbone one expects from this vineyard: layers of black fruit tinged with graphite toward the finish. It is almost as if this Morey is rubbing in the fact that its Chambolle stablemates suffered so much during the growing season. This ranks alongside the stupendous 2015 last year. -Neal Martin

A pure red, saturated with black cherry, black currant, violet, spice and mineral notes, showing a dense, almost chunky feel. A beam of vivid acidity cuts through, adding grace and focusing the flavors. Fine length. Best from 2022 through 2037. — B.S.

(89-92) Here the nose is completely clean with its pretty, pure, elegant and airy aromas of both red and dark pinot fruit that are cut with varying degrees of earth, floral and spice wisps. The rich, sleek and beautifully delineated middle weight flavors also flash enough minerality to mention, all wrapped in a firm and serious but not really robust or especially austere finale.

This year’s Clos de la Bussière, which may be the most underrated wine in this coveted producer’s cellar, is superb. It reveals a lovely bouquet of cherry, plum, potpourri and incipient notes of loamy soil, while on the palate the wine is full-bodied, plush and generous, with good concentration, a bright core of fruit and well-integrated, fine-grained tannins. With a decade of bottle age this will really shine. Drinking Window 2026 - 2045

The Clos de la Bussière was also hit by the frost, but in the context of frost damage in Chambolle, the one-third that was lost here in this vineyard was not particularly crippling to quantity. The wine is excellent in 2016, with the inherent elegance of the vintage already very much in evidence, as the refined nose wafts from the glass in a blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, lovely soil tones, bitter chocolate, woodsmoke and a topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with lovely focus and grip, ripe tannins and impressive backend energy and grip on the long and nascently complex finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2024-2065)