A background hint of honey frames the cool, pure and airy aromas of various white-fleshed fruit, quinine and floral wisps. There is good density to the nicely mineral-inflected and relatively supple flavors possess focused power on the citrus, clean, tangy and notably dry finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. I like the complexity and while this should age gracefully, it's not so tightly wound that it couldn't be enjoyed young.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos from Domaine Laroche plays its cards very close to its vest, only unwinding with extended aeration to reveal a pretty bouquet of crisp white peach, lemon oil and citrus blossom. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, glossy and delicately textural, with a deep, stony core and vibrant acids, concluding with a stony, almost saline finish. This is a Les Clos that's going to insist on several years' patience, but it's pure, discreetly concentrated and well-balanced, so I wouldn't bet against it. - WK