The lovely 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux wafts from the glass with an old-school nose of lemon oil, wet stones, iodine, mandarin and smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive palate, with brisk acids and a stony, saline finish. This is a bit more generous out of the blocks than some of Matrot's other 2016s, but it will still reward a few years' bottle age.- WK

Firm reduction makes the nose difficult to assess. Otherwise there is excellent size, weight and richness to the opulently textured middle weight flavors that possess slightly better cut and minerality on the sneaky long and drier finish.

(the crop here was moderate at 44 hectoliters per hectare, but due more to the advanced age of the vines than to frost, according to Elsa Matrot): Pale yellow. Inviting aromas of white stone fruits, pineapple and crushed rock. Tactile, youthful wine with attractive inner-mouth citrus perfume and wet-stone minerality. Not a fat style but smooth and light on its feet. Finishes with good dusty grip and length. -- Stephen Tanzer