Hints of flinty reduction and lifted earthiness send conflicting messages of freshness and evolution on the nose of this wine that is rich with lifted red cherry. The palate then plumps for brightness and almost grassy verve, with lively, energetic fruit and tender but pervasive freshness. Notions of forest floor perfume everything with a slight, resonant pepperiness. Fine tannins appear on the resonant finish. ANNE KREBIEHL MW