Rich and luscious while also structured, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and spice from wood aging. It comes from a walled vineyard, part of an estate managed by Louis Jadot. This wine has density along with a strong textured character that will allow it to age. Drink from 2023. ROGER VOSS

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Duc de Magenta) is showing very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, marzipan, beeswax and a subtle framing of smoky oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, dense and thickly textured, with imposing concentration and chewy dry extract but balanced by succulent acids, concluding with a long, mineral finish. While the frost has made this atypically concentrated, this Morgeot remains in balance and appears to have all the necessary elements for a very interesting evolution in bottle.- WK