Pure and intense, featuring cherry, black currant and violet aromas and flavors, this red is seductive and approachable despite its youth. The solid structure is seamlessly integrated and bodes well for future development. Shows terrific harmony and expression. Best from 2023 through 2042. — B.S.

(91-94) A fresh yet notably ripe nose is composed by liqueur-like aromas of plum, spice and earth. The delicious, refined and once again strikingly pure flavors are a bit less muscular and mineral-driven than those of the Taillepieds yet the tannic spine shaping the lingering if ever-so-slightly warm finish is just as firm. This is going to require at least moderate patience before it begins to be approachable.

93+ In contrast to the precocious 2017, the 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans is tight-knit and reserved and will demand patience. Offering up aromas of plums, cherries, violets, dark chocolate and forest floor, the wine is, medium to full-bodied, chewy and firm, with lovely depth at the core but an imposing, muscular chassis of fine-grained tannin that asserts itself on the finish. I have no concerns about the balance of this Champans, but readers should plan on waiting at least a dozen years before pulling corks. - William Kelley