Mind-boggling purity and brilliance make the enormously concentrated mango, papaya and dried-apricot aromas light up like fireworks in the sky. What a breathtaking finish. Sure you can drink it now, but long experience with the wines of this producer suggest it's got many decades ahead of it. Very limited production.

Prickly notes of lemon peel, white currant and pineapple core on the nose anticipate the tangy, invigorating aspect of this wine’s glossy, glycerol-rich palate. White currant jelly and caramelized glazed pineapple pull things in a confitured and confectionary direction, but the seriously sustained finish retains invigorating sizzle and tart-edged brightness. This should gain significantly from its next few years in bottle. -- David Schildknecht