The blue fruit and freshness are impressive here. At the same time, there’s richness and focus with ripe fruit. Yet, it remains cool and bright. Superb center palate with great fruit and depth, but compact and focused. Needs three or four years to come together. Better after 2021.

With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the Pio Cesare 2016 Barolo Ornato offers a stunning presentation in this classic vintage. The bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, all framed by crushed stone, forest floor, blue flower and candied orange skin. There is a dusty mineral note to this wine as well, with terrific intensity on both the nose and the palate. The Ornato kicks in with finely integrated tannins and acidity that holds all those fruit flavors high and tall. What we have here is a standout Barolo that is staunchly vertical, linear and upfront. - Monica Larner

This fine site in Serralunga is elevated at 380 metres, which may explain the wine's finesse. Very ripe sour cherries dominate the nose, which is perfumed and lifted, with a touch of vanilla beneath the soaring fruit. It's taut and sleek, with high acidity but no greenness. The tannins are well integrated, so the texture is polished. It's still tight and undoubtedly complex, with hints of tobacco and coffee. The balance is impeccable and this will go the distance. Although it may be accessible young, this will develop more nuances with further ageing. Long minty finish.

The Ornato cru was first produced by the estate in 1985 from vines located in the southern area of Serralunga d’Alba. The 2016 Barolo Ornato has aromas of redcurrant, cedar, tar, and dried sage. The palate is firmly structured, with cherry pit, black tea, and stony earth. Patience will be rewarded for cellaring for 3-6 years. Drink 2025-2048.

Aromas of rose petal, underbrush, crushed botanical herb and woodland berry mingle with a whiff of hazelnut. On the linear, precise palate, tight fine-grained tannins accompany sour cherry, blood orange, licorice and coffee bean. Drink 2024–2036. - KERIN O’KEEFE

This is refined and taut, delivering a finely woven matrix of cherry, black currant, tar, iron and oak spice flavors. It's firm and long, with equilibrium and a lingering aftertaste. Stays vibrant and focused from beginning to end. Best from 2024 through 2045. — B.S.