This is very solidly built, nearly bristling with briary energy along the edges while the core of steeped plum, cherry and currant fruit cruises through. Mouthwatering savory, tobacco and olive notes score the finish, all set against a lovely floral accent in the background. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,700 cases made. — JM

Moving to the 2016s and starting with the 2016 Côte Rôtie Ampodium, this beautiful, silky, incredibly elegant wine has classic notes of red and black fruits, spring flowers, hints of bacon fat as well as green olive. Medium-bodied, about as graceful and elegant as they come, with sweet tannins and a great finish, it’s a no-brainer purchase to drink over the coming 10-15 years. I followed this bottle for two days and it does best with a decant if drinking any time soon.

Deep ruby. Expressive aromas of ripe blackberry, boysenberry, licorice and olive paste show very good clarity and pick up a smoky nuance as the wine stretches out. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit flavors complemented by a building floral pastille note. Shows noticeable weight on the broad, gently tannic finish, which echoes the dark berry and licorice notes. -- Josh Raynolds

There are 20,000 bottles of Rostaing's 2016 Cote Rotie Ampodium, so it is the cuvée most consumers are likely to encounter. It's a fine example of the appellation, offering briary notes of ripe red fruit with spice and herb shadings. It's medium-bodied, silky and fine, with attractive notes of licorice and tea on the finish that give this entry-level wine more complexity than most. -JC