(90-93) A fresh and quite densely fruited nose combines notes of red and dark cherry, cranberry and plenty of both spice and warm earth wisps. The beautifully intense and chiseled middle weight flavors brim with minerality on the dusty, firm and palate coating finish that also flashes a touch of youthful austerity. This isn't the densest wine in the range but the balance is impeccable.

Plump delicious purple, lifted dark raspberry notes, a slightly more solid structure, very ripe but still red fruit leaps up behind. More red fruit at the finish vying with the perfume of super-ripe cherries plus some herbal notes. Good acid tannin balance.

(90-93) Bright red with ruby tones. Very ripe aromas of blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Richer and fatter than the Bousselots but also a bit medicinal and lower-pitched, offering flavors of dark fruits and dark chocolate. Finishes drier in a classical way, with bigger shoulders and more obvious tannins than the Vosne-side Bousselots, if not quite that wine's class.-ST

The Roncières is lovely, opening in the glass with aromas of blackberry, currant leaf and meaty bass notes. The wine is rich, full-bodied and structurally firmer than the Chaignots and Bousselots, its chassis of tannin asserting itself on the finish. This will be beautiful after a decade in the cellar.