An intense but balanced nose of dried daffodils, apricot pie, dried peaches, vanilla, dried nutmeg and a hint of dried citrus rind. Full-bodied with an oily texture, which is well complemented by some bright acidity and layers of stone fruit. Full and charming white. Drink now or hold.

Moving to a small retrospective of the Esprit de Tablas Blanc cuvée, the 2016 Esprit de Tablas Blanc (75% Roussanne, 18% Grenache Blanc, and the rest Picpoul Blanc aged in foudre) offers a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and textured style to go with youthful notes of ripe apple, buttered citrus, and some spicy, mineral nuances. It’s still a baby yet certainly offers pleasure.

A blend of 75% Roussanne, 18% Grenache Blanc and 7% Picpoul Blanc, the 2016 Esprit Blanc de Tablas reveals aromas of honeyed citrus, fresh peaches and white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, textural and layered, has good concentration and depth and is nicely balanced despite its rich, gourmand qualities. Haas feels that the estate's Roussanne was especially successful this year, thus the 2016 contains the largest percentage of that grape in this blend's history. Give it a few years in the cellar to unwind before following it for a decade or more. - WK

Loads of white flower, guava peel and orange blossom aromas show on the nose of this blend of 75% Roussanne, 18% Grenache Blanc and 7% Picpoul Blanc. Light pear, peach and guava flavors make for a mellow expression that will age for years but is drinking great now. Drink until 2030. MATT KETTMANN