Showing even better than when I tasted it last year, the 2016 Vatan (100% Tinta de Toro) is still a baby and sports a deep purple color as well as blockbuster notes of blackcurrants, melted licorice, violets, ground pepper, and earth. It starts out tight and backward on the palate but slowly opens with air. It’s full-bodied, opulent, and powerful, yet still stays light on its feet, balanced, and lively. It still needs another 2-3 years and is going to evolve for 15-20 years or more.

Firm and dense, this red delivers rich flavors of blackberry, fig, cocoa, licorice and mineral, set in a thick texture, supported by well-integrated tannins and kept lively by balsamic acidity. Savory, even austere, yet harmonious and complete. Best from 2022 through 2036. 2,250 cases made, 1,250 cases imported. — TM