Scents of red currant, red raspberry, white peach and lime are mingled with a lot stronger suggestion of diverse mineral matter – stony, smoky, and saline – than I usually expect from this site. Tart-edged but ripe red...
Scents of red currant, red raspberry, white peach and lime are mingled with a lot stronger suggestion of diverse mineral matter – stony, smoky, and saline – than I usually expect from this site. Tart-edged but ripe red fruits get the upper hand on a subtly creamy palate, where crunchy evocations of berry seed and carrot, a sizzle of cinnamon stick and prickly suggestions of peach fuzz convey invigoration if also a bit of phenolic rusticity to the long, stone-, peat- and mineral-salt-tinged finish. In a reversal of what I would have anticipated, this conveys less polish or sheer juiciness than the two Grosse Gewächse from Schlossböckelheim. But that observation must be interpreted in the context of an exceptionally fine collection, not to mention taken for the snapshot that it is. I suspect that this wine is just acting youthfully obstreperous and those who cellar it will be richly rewarded.
-- David Schildknecht