The 2017 Etna Rosso is also beautiful, with a Nebbiolo-like nose of ripe cherries, tar, dried rose petals, and spice. Medium-bodied, rounded, and sexy on the palate, it's a hypothetical mix of Nebbiolo and Grenache (or Oregon Pinot Noir). Drink it over the coming 7-8 years.

The 2017 Etna Rosso is a terrific entry-level red wine from the Sicilian volcano that boasts the power and electric charge that I associate with wines from this fascinating territory. If you are new to the wines of Etna, this Rosso is a great place to start. This is a well-made and carefully shaped Nerello Mascalese (aged in large oak casks for eight months) that ushers forth smaller berry fruit, smoke and pencil shavings. The fruit is pure and precise. The wine's overall presentation is sharp and accessible. This is a blend of grapes from various contrade, including Verzella, Guardiola, Solicchiata and Feudo di Mezzo. Some 50,000 bottles were made.- ML

A compact, minerally version, with tobacco and smoke notes leading to flavors of dried cherry, pomegranate, coffee and spice. Medium-bodied and fresh, with grippy tannins that should integrate well with short cellaring. Best from 2022 through 2027. 2,500 cases made, 1,250 cases imported. — AN