Hailing from Josh Jensen's iconic vineyard at 2,200 feet above the Salinas Valley, this is an epic Chardonnay, loaded with clean, lively aromas of cherimoya, honeysuckle, sweet cream, crisp peach, struck flint and chive. The palate is tightly wound, with flavors of lemon spray, seared nectarine, sea salt and toasted oak. MATT KETTMANN

The 2017 Chardonnay Mount Harlan went through full malolactic and aged 15 months in 30% new French oak. The nose unfurls to mushroom tart, prosciutto, baked quince and golden apples with a streak of crushed shell/saline plus accents of orange blossoms, jasmine and hazelnuts. Light to medium-bodied, it's minerally on the entry, slowly spreading savory wings in the mouth, lifted by tangy acidity and finishing long, bright and mineral again. I love the dynamic character of this wine. 1,900 cases produced.- EB

Calera has about ten acres of chardonnay planted in Mt. Harlan’s limestone soils; two-thirds of it was planted in 1984. This vintage had the tasters at our table sitting up in their chairs. “Oh,” said one, “this wine has some stuffing to unstuff.” It leads with a powerful oak spice, from 30 percent new and 10 percent second-use French-oak barrels; then it turns rich and beautifully structured, the fruit round, with notes of toasted lees, hazelnuts and golden apple. It needs time or a decanter before you serve it with a roast chicken, Zuni style.