Lots of dried herbs, leather, redcurrants, and a touch of sassafras emerge from the medium-bodied 2017 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard. With a rounded, elegant texture, beautiful acidity, and a terrific, lengthy finish, it opens up nicely with time in the glass and is just a complex, nuanced beauty to enjoy over the coming decade.

From a parcel planted in 1989 at a cool elevation of 2,500 feet, Ryan was the most alluring and elusive of the three Calera wines we tasted for this issue. It’s vinous, with a distant scent of smoke and a lean elegance. The dark-plum flavors are plenty ripe but are informed by a thrust of acid that gives the wine energy and aging power. Cellar. —P.J.C.

The 2017 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is laced with the essence of sweet red berry, cinnamon, orange peel, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco. Medium in body, with striking inner perfume and impeccable balance, the 2017 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. The Ryan emerges from the highest-altitude parcel on the property. By Antonio Galloni on September 2020

Baked cherry, star anise, clove and chai elements show on the ripe and spicy nose of this bottling, which was harvested after this vintage's huge Labor Day heat spike. The wine is rich, heavy and layered on the palate, with black plum flavors coated in cardamom and sagebrush. MATT KETTMANN

The 2017 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard, aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, has a pale to medium ruby-purple color and is youthful and shy to begin. With coaxing, aromas of prosciutto, wild blackberries, lemon peel and redcurrants emerge, with nuances of oolong tea leaves and dusty earth. Medium-bodied, it's broody and earthy with lifted citrusy accents in the mouth, a finely grained frame and juicy freshness on the finish. 1,982 cases produced.- EB