Various plots around the appellation are farmed organically, and all varieties are co-fermented for this wine. It has aromas of pear, anise, flowers and heather honey, with a medium- to full-bodied palate displaying very pure pear fruit, grapefruit and some florality. It has lovely internal sweetness, with a honeyed quince character. A really lovely expression of quite intense fruit - a little too intense to be truly elegant perhaps, but with good balancing acidity. Just a touch of warming alcohol pokes through. (Drink between 2019-2031)

Vivid straw-yellow. Highly perfumed citrus and orchard fruit and floral qualities on the mineral-accented nose. Shows excellent concentration as well as vivacity, offering palate-staining pear, Meyer lemon and brioche flavors that stretch out steadily with air. The floral and mineral elements return emphatically on the intense, sharply focused finish, which lingers with serious persistence.-JR

Always a brilliant wine, the 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is the normal blend of all the permitted varieties, brought up in tank with malolactic fermentation blocked. This beauty offers classic apple blossom, crushed rock-like minerality, and ample citrus in a clean, crisp, yet also concentrated package. It will be better with short-term cellaring yet keep for two decades.

Creamed pear, melon and green fig notes form the core, with a frame of honeysuckle and heather adding range. Plump overall, but a verbena streak adds freshness for balance through the gently toasted finish. This has lots of range and is sneaky long. Drink now through 2027. 250 cases made, 20 cases imported. — JM

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a stunningly concentrated effort produced from minuscule yields of only ten hectoliters per hectare. Made and aged entirely in stainless steel, it offers aromas of apple blossoms and tangerines. This medium to full-bodied white combines richness and lime zest, and it seems to be developing quickly. Already showing hints of honey and truffle, I would opt for drinking it on the young side, although Paul-Vincent Avril likes his whites after ten or more years of cellaring.-JC