At 0.43ha, this is a sizeable chunk of Clos de la Roche. Fermented with 30% stems and aged entirely in one-year-old oak, it's a scented, supple Clos de la Roche which may not make old bones but will be a delight to drink young, showing sweet summer-pudding fruit, a dusting of clove spice and stylish oak. (Drink between 2023-2029)

(90-93) A more deeply pitched nose speaks of spiced plum, cassis, herbal tea and a whiff of the sauvage. There is notably better density and volume to the tautly muscular big-bodied flavors that possess evident power and particularly so on the impressively long if mildly warm finish that is presently youthfully austere and compact. Patience required.

The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru presents a primal nose of red cherries, strawberry pastilles and orange blossom, just missing some complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, lithe tannins. Again, it is quite pastille-like in character, and fleshy and quite caressing on the finish, though like Remy's Clos de la Roche, I am looking for more breeding, and perhaps more grip on the finish. Maybe I was just expecting a little more given its showing from barrel. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. -- Neal Martin