A beautifully perfumed example, this is fine-boned yet with density, not the weightiest but there is still enough fruit to fill the palate. Despite the label, don’t think of this as a Morgeot. Tête du Clos counts as one of the mineral-style upper-slope lieux-dits in my book.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Tête du Clos 1er Cru, which comes from the highest vines in the climat, presents an open and candied bouquet of lemon sherbet, orange zest and light lime aromas. The palate has very good fruit concentration, offering lemon zest, blood orange, allspice and lemon thyme. Good depth and grip on the finish, which feels reassuringly long and leaves a saline aftertaste. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. -- Neal Martin