From the cooler Eola-Amily Hills, also on volcanic soils, this opens with alluring aromas of petrichor and more time in the glass reveals smoky Mirabelle plums and radiant freshness. This vivid brightness is also apparent on the concentrated and beautifully textured palate, with convincing structure and poise. Fermented in both steel and wood, this is sophisticated, sprightly and utterly mouthwatering. (Drink between 2022-2035)

The wines from Drouhin's Roserock vineyard, in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, offer a nice counterpoint to the more familiar Dundee Hills bottlings. This young wine is smooth and supple, with medium ripeness. Lemon, peach and pear fruit flavors combine gracefully, with a toasty wrap pulling the wine into focus. PAUL GREGUTT

Aged 10 months in about 15% new oak, the 2017 Chardonnay gives scents of apple pie, Meyer lemon and quince with notes of crushed stone, toast and Greek yogurt. Light to medium-bodied and silky, it has restrained, minerally fruits with juicy acidity and a long finish. This could use another year in bottle to put on a touch of weight. - EB