This has a very impressive sense of density and power with such immaculate detail and definition, in terms of tannin and fruit. The aromas are in the spicy and floral zone with blue-fruit and leafy nuances. Deceptively elegant and convincingly excellent pinot noir. Drink across the next decade.

The 2017 Zéphirine Pinot Noir is a selection of the best barrels from the Roserock vineyard. Pale to medium ruby-purple, it's scented of crushed boysenberries, blackberries, cranberries, bergamot and forest floor with touches of dried rose petals and violets. Medium-bodied and über silky, it offers great intensity and flavor layers, grainy and fresh with a long, layered finish. - Erin Brooks

A dynamic wine, showing both grace and structure, this opens like a flower bloom, revealing notes of raspberry, crushed stone, fresh violet and savory tea. Builds richness and tension toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2027. — T.F.

This is named after a variety of rose created in 1868 called Zéphirine Drouhin, sometimes known as La Belle Dijonnaise. One can imagine the analogy, as this wine has a distinctively Burgundian character. It is a barrel selection of the best results from the Roserock vineyard, which advances the elegance of the regular bottling with a darker, plummy cast to the fruit and more richness, density and volume on the palate.

This barrel selection, a so-called “reference expression of the site”, is named for a species of climbing rose. As a reference point for the site and the AVA it works quite well, with firm black-cherry fruit at the core, and highlights of coffee and earth in the polished tannins. - PAUL GREGUTT