A hard-to-beat Corton-Charlemagne in 2017, this comes from cool, east-facing vineyards that ripen very slowly, even in a warm year. Focussed, pithy and fizzing with energy, it's a rich, dense wine with 40% new oak, creamy lees and a tangy, mouthwatering finish. (Drink between 2020-2029)

Faiveley's 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has realized all the potential it showed from barrel last year, wafting from the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, mandarin oil, green apple, white flowers and pear that are framed by a discrete application of classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, racy and beautifully balanced, with a deep and concentrated core, mouthwatering acids and a long, penetrating finish. This is a supremely elegant rendition of the appellation, and it's well worth seeking out. As I recounted last year, two out of the fifteen barrels of wine that were produced derive, for the first time, from white vines planted at the top of Faiveley's famous Clos des Cortons. - William Kelley