Hudelot-Noëllat's 0.8ha of the Clos are made up of two parcels, both of them in the upper part of the grand cru. Intensely aromatic and sweet, this is the quintessence of Pinot Noir, with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit complemented by acidity and 40% new wood. Deliciously hedonistic.

(91-94) A pretty, cool and restrained nose reluctantly offers up notes of red currant, earth, humus and a hint of violet, all of which is trimmed in a discreet application of wood. The vibrant and detailed flavors are not especially concentrated (though they're certainly not dilute) but I like the punch plus the moderately austere finish is more refined than it typically is. Solid if not sensational quality here.

(WA 91-93+ points) Aromas of wild berries, cassis, incense, smoked duck and rose hip introduce the 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that's quite charming and open-knit by the standards of Clos Vougeout and even by the standards of this routinely elegant cuvée. Framed by fine-grained tannins, it's pure, fleshy and elegant, and it should shine at a comparatively early age. - William Kelley