The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos exhibits aromas of fresh and preserved citrus mingled with nuances of yellow orchard fruit, praline and wheat toast, its framing of new oak becoming more prominent with aeration. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with succulent acids and a promising sense of structural reserve. This isn't the most powerful and concentrated rendition of Les Clos, but it's nicely balanced and should develop well in bottle. - William Kelley

Almost Côte de Beaune in style, with toasty oak framing the lemon, apple and mineral flavors, until the steely structure exerts itself. With air, this comes together beautifully, in a balanced, harmonious way. Decant now or wait a year or two. Drink now through 2025. 125 cases made, 15 cases imported. — BS