92+ Monsieur Billaud’s parcel in Vaillons also hails from his 2014 purchase of some of his family’s former plots, and these vines are also seventy years of age. I often think of Vaillons as one of the terroirs that marries the most seamlessly with a touch of oak and this is indeed the case with the Billaud 2017 version, which offers up a superb bouquet of apple, sweet grapefruit, paraffin, chalky soil tones that show a hint of oyster shell, a touch of citrus peel, spring flowers and a deft foundation of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with an excellent core of fruit, fine soil signature, vibrant acids and a long, poised and complex finish. This is very impressive!

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes derives from Le Vaillon itself, and this is a serious rendition, unfurling with aromas of fresh peach, white flowers, yellow orchard fruit, orange rind and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with an ample core of crisp, fragrant fruit and a saline finish. - WK

The 2017 Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru is another super-appealing wine in this lineup. Floral overtones work so well to play off the natural richness these old vines confer. White flowers, mint and tropical fruit infuse the 2017 with notable complexity and layers of flavor. In the 2017, the Vaillons Vieilles Vignes is a Chablis of pure and total sensuality. -- Antonio Galloni

This is quite floral in character with its layered, cool and airy nose that exhibits notes of spice, moderate Chablis character and various white-fleshed fruit aromas. The sleek, intense and nicely focused medium-bodied flavors also possess a lovely sense of energy and minerality on the very dry and sneaky long finish. If this youthfully austere effort can add more depth it should merit the upper end of my projected range. I would further note that the texture is much more sophisticated than its 2018 counterpart.